Girl… surfs Hossegor, France

Where: South West Surf Hostel, Seignosse, France

Why: If you’ve read my piece on surfing in California at The Cali Camp either here or in the February 2015 edition of ELLE UK, you’ll know I’m hooked on surfing. It’s also where I met Chantal, the Swiss-German girl I shared a room with and who I’m now happy to call a friend. So when Chantal emailed me asking, “Do you want to go surfing in France?”  it was a no brainer and within hours, we’d booked our flights and accommodation and were off to the beaches of south-west France.

After hugs at the airport in Bordeaux, we jumped in our hire car and sat-naved our way to the pretty town of Seignosse, where late at night (after some wrong turns) we finally found the Carwyn’s Surf House, now called South West Surf Hostel, tucked away on a leafy country road down an unmarked and un-signposted driveway. The only clue we had that we were in the right place was a room packed with surfboards, wetsuits, skateboards and bikes. The hostel looked like someone’s home and after calling out and venturing inside, James, one of the Aussie live-in hosts, appeared out of nowhere to greet us, explaining that they’d been out the back at the pool-side beach bar and didn’t hear us arrive – they being Carwyn (the owner), Benny (the other Aussie live-in host) and guests Dominique and Emily – before showing us our shared bunk-slash-dorm room (flash-back to my Year 9 school camp), which is how most surf camps are set up: no frills, shared rooms and lots of fun. (I’m just going to spell it out here – this is a hostel, not luxury accom, cheap bunk-style shared dorms for people who want to spend more time in the waves than in their room.)

After chatting to the girls, we headed to bed, ready for a day’s surfing the next day… Which didn’t actually happen because, after a breakfast of pancakes (veganised especially for me by Benny), Carwyn, Chantal, Emily and I headed to Les Bourdains beach in Hossegor, where the sea was essentially a pond – not a wave in sight. After heading back to the hostel, Chantal and I jumped into our hire car to explore the area. Venturing into the town of Soorts-Hossegor, we had a coffee at a French café then checked out the surf shops, where Chantal bought a fantastic Roxy wetsuit that actually fitted her 6ft frame. We then drove to Capbreton, a pretty town next to Soorts-Hossegor, and walked around its little cobbled streets crammed with souvenir shops and cafes, before lolling around on Centrale Beach for an hour and downing dinner at Le Napoli pizzeria at Soorts-Hossegor.

That night, back at the hostel, Benny ran through the Hossegor surf report with us on cult surf website magicseaweed.com, telling us that with any luck, we should have some tasty waves the next day. And he was right – after breakfast and throwing our boards and wetsuits into the van, Carwyn drove Benny, Chantal, Emily and I back to Les Bourdains, where the waves were the perfect size for me. Jumping right in, we all paddled out beyond the white water into the break. Benny and Carwyn (who is a reasonably famous-slash-notorious Welsh ex-pro surfer) were amazing with us – they helped us choose the right waves, gave us a push if we needed it and were as excited as we were when we rode a wave into the shore. It was such great fun and the best surfing I’ve done so far. There were times when I would get onto my board, stand up immediately… and fall off. But there were other times when, miraculously, I didn’t fall off and actually rode a wave for more than a few seconds. It was during these moments, when I felt like a weightless bird, my feet barely registering the board beneath me, that it all seemed so effortless and it reminded me of how surfing is meant to feel when all the elements come together.

After a few hours in the water, we all headed back to the hostel, where everyone pitched in for a boozy barbecue around the pool. This, apparently, is ‘a thing’ at Carwyn’s – barbecue-time being when everyone chills, gets to know each other and parties in the sun, which we did until dinner time, when I cooked vegan pasta for everyone and Dominique made Italian peppers. Being Saturday night, it didn’t take long for the boys to convince us to go out, so we all piled into the van and headed to the bars of Soorts-Hossegor and Seignosse to party. Not much to say other than karaoke, dancing at Coolin A La Plage (turns out James can salsa!), drinking and fun times… And next-day hangovers, which didn’t stop Chantal and I from dragging ourselves to the beach on our own. Grabbing our long boards, we headed back to Les Bourdaines, where we surfed until our arms ached and it was time to go back to the hostel, pack our bags and drive back to Bordeaux.

Half surf-camp, half party house, this is the ultimate cheap and cheerful surf break for 20-somethings wanting good times + waves. Undergoing renovations, the house is rough around the edges, but the shabby-surf-chic interiors and bunk dorms aren’t why people come here – it’s the atmosphere that makes this place special. Add a free-flowing backyard beach bar, garden pool, sweet surf spots and a load of chilled vibes and you’ve got all the ingredients for the perfect endless summer – or at least a fun weekend away.

What’s hot: The atmosphere and sense of joyful chaos in the house.

What’s not: The house is a 10-minute drive from the beach, so you have to rely on the daily beach transfer in Carwyn’s dodgy van to get to the waves (some of Europe’s best surf breaks are here), but the tranquil beauty of the surrounding woodlands (+ Carwyn’s trampoline Narnia) makes up for this.

Number of rooms: The hostel can sleep up to 16 people in girls’ and boys’ dorms plus double rooms.

Best room: This is cheap dorm-style accommodation, so it’s not about the rooms, however, when I visited, James and Benny were working on finishing a fancy private double ‘honeymoon’ room with ensuite, which will be available to book this summer.

Who stays here: 20-something party people wanting tasty waves and fun times. The hostel has an easygoing crashing-with-friends vibe, so if you’re after a structured stay with organised times for eating/surfing, Carwyn’s is not for you. It’s a little shambolic, but that’s part of the charm – plus the atmosphere is gentle and inclusive, which is perfect for female solo-travellers.

Check in/check out: Times are flexible – ask when you book.

Swimming pool: Yes, outdoors – it’s not fancy but it’s good fun when you’re melting in the sun.

Eating & drinking: Breakfast is included and Carwyn puts on DIY as-it-comes lunch and dinner options + barbecues at the house. Otherwise, walk to nearby Saubion for real coffee, baked goods and delicious pastries or head into Seignosse plage, Soorts-Hossegor or Capbreton for bars, cafes and restaurants: try Le Napoli for great mussels and pizza or Le Surfing for healthy cheap eats.

Near to: Hossegor and Capbreton, but also San Sebastian in Spain – ask the boys about the Tapas Tour.

Free wifi: Yes.

Getting there: Biarritz is a half-hour drive from Seignosse; Bordeaux is two hours away. I flew EasyJet to Bordeaux.

Price: Low season shared room €35 per night/private room €100 per night; high season (July & August) shared room €45 per night/private room €120 per night – includes breakfast and daily beach transfers. Surfboard hire is €10 per day / wetsuit hire is free.

Address: 10 Route de Saubion, 40510, Seignosse, France

Website: surfhostelfrance.com